Climbing in Ala Archa National Park
Simply put, the Ak Sai region in Ala Archa National Park is one of the best climbing areas anywhere in the world. For any climbing trip to Kyrgyzstan it is a must go to region and the best way to warm up before heading out on longer expeditions. Actually in the end you can travel all over Kyrgyzstan looking for great climbing and in the end the best walls are right outside the capital city, 40 kilometers outside of Bishkek.
In summer there are rock routes of more than 500m. This is a region of no bolts, you will have to go and take a look at what looks good to climb. In the Bachichike section I describe some of the routes on the main rock wall. The best time for rock climbing is from July to October, before July it can be nice but often will rain, after October it gets a bit cold.
For ice climbing the season is from October to March. The wall of Free Korea and the North Face of Korona are the classic ice walls, long routes of either ice or mixed. On Free Korea there are two classic lines, the Barber route and the Lowe route, each long routes that were soled by Henry Barber and Jeff Lowe in the 70s. There are many other climbs on the wall that go through the bands of rock. On the North Wall of Korona there are many options, from extreme mixed to good lines of ice. All of this is not for the people that want a simple day of a little ice or rock. For this reason the area will never be a popular climbing area, most of the routes are simply too long and hard for the weekend type climber. A classic and simple climb is the south side of Korona, it is a long snow slope with a pitch or two of either a rock pillar or a 60 degree ice route. This is a popular climb and I describe it the Korona section of this guide.
There are some small cliffs right near the Ratsek cabin that have always been the traditional top rope area. Also if you follow the stream up from above the cabin there are good small cliffs that are of a rope length. I have explored here and found great short climbs, so if you do not want a full day multi pitch climbing experience it is worth it to bring a rope and a small rack up to the Ratsek and from there explore around.
How to get to the Park
The easiest but most expensive way to get to the park from Bishkek is to take a taxi. In late 2007 a taxi for up to 4 people cost approximately 500 som (that’s roughly $15, although it can cost a few dollars less or a fair few dollars more depending on where in Bishkek you’re setting off from, your negotiating skills and the mood of the driver). You need to tell the driver you want to go all the way to the “Alp Lager” Hotel and that you will pay the entrance fees at the park gates. The trail-heads are at the Hotel, a full 10km beyond the park gates. In late 2007 the park entrance fee was 30 som per adult and 50 som per vehicle. If it’s a sunny weekend the park will be busy with pic-nicing families and you could save a few bucks by taking a taxi as far as the park gates (300-400 som) and hitching a lift the rest of the way up to the hotel.
The cheapest way to get to the park is to catch a Marshrutka (minibus) for around 30-40 som. There are various numbers that go to the park. The number 365 leaves from Osh Bazaar but you can also catch it heading South at the bus stop on Mira directly opposite the Alpine Fund office window (i.e. the bus stop on South West corner of the Achumbeva – Mira crossroad not the one next to the supermarket). Check that the 365 is going all the way the park gates as some only go as far as Kashka-Soo Village. From the gates you’ll have to walk or hitch up to the trails so if you’ve got a heavy bag taxi is probably the best option.
An even better option is to RENT THE ALPINE FUND VAN! If you’re in a big group or have a lot of gear then the van might be just what you need. We can even throw in a couple of our interns to help you carry your gear up the hill…
Getting to the Climbs
At the Alpenlager Hotel (a big modern building with a red roof), leave the tarmac road that heads South and follow the trail that heads off to the left past a yurt. The path is sign posted Ak-Sai. This will lead you up the first valley on the left after the hotel. The well worn trail leads up to the Ratsek Hut. Its a 3-5 hour hike depending on how fit you are and how much gear you’re carrying. The hut sits next to the Ak-Sai glacier and is the main base for climbing in the area. In summer to the cabin can be a good place to walk up to and back down in as day’s hike, in winter it is longer, gets steep and icy at times and good boots are necessary.
Getting back to Bishkek
Once you’re back down at the hotel you can hitch a lift, phone an expensive taxi (local cell phone networks such as Megacom and Bitel have signal near the Hotel) or walk the 10km back down to the gates and catch a marshrutka. During the summer marshrutkas often come all the way up to the hotel.
Amenities
At the glacier there is of course the famous Ratsek hut, built by the soviets. It’s showing it’s age and lack of maintenance and car, but it’s a place to sleep and is reputedly to be refurbished soon… Most climbers seem to prefer to sleep in tents in the spaces around the hut. The Alpine Hotel has rooms and a small restaurant/café. There are also some budget accommodation options the small ‘resorts’ around the hotel and at least one other café.
Past the Ratsek cabin
Further on up past Ratsek Cabin there are two more small metal cabins that are used by climbers. If you continue straight up the trail past the Ratsek after about 100m there will be a big rock that has memorial plates attached to it. From this rock you can go left, this is the trail to peak Uchitel (teacher) and is a great three hour hike up to get nice views of the region.
There is a trail that goes a little past the rock then angles left. This trail goes to the wall of Bachichike and the north wall of Peak Korona. At the end of this trail is a small metal hut that is still in pretty good shape as it is not often used. This cabin is about a three-hour walk past the Ratsek, just after you start walking on the glacier keep looking left and you will see the cabin just up on the hill. As of my last visit in 2002 it was still in good shape.
If you take the trail straight past the rock and then angle slightly right you will take the trail to the south side of Peak Korona. About two or three hours from the Ratsek there is also a small metal cabin to stay in. This trail rises steeply along the left side of the glacier, then flat along the glacier, stay to the left and the cabin will be right below the snowfield that comes off of Korona. There used to be two cabins here, one was set on fire in 2000, the other is about to fall over. So you may want to bring tents here as well.
Climbs
Bachichiki
This is the main rock wall for single day climbing trip from the Ratsek cabin.
The classic route is Schwaba, a seven pitch 5.8 - 5.10 route that goes up the right side. The route is well protected with big ledges and is a comfortable one day trip. On the main wall are only three standard rock routes, but many other variations and new routes to be claimed. In winter the ice flow on the left fills up and creates a beautiful thick pencil that stays all winter.
Area description
The best season for the rock routes is from July to the end of September. The routes face south and get sun all day. This is an especially good wall for those lazy types that want to stay in camp and let the rock warm up before leaving camp. The ice gets rotten in the summer, but by October is already frozen up and forming.
To get to the base of the climbs, walk up a few hundred meters along the main trail from the cabin to the large memorial rock. 30 meters beyond the rock the trail forks, take the left fork of the trail, this will lead you along the base of the cliff. After a half hour or so of walking the trail parallels the cliff, It is tempting to angle toward the cliff and hike over scree, but to find the route it is best to stay on the trail until you are directly below the route, then decide what scree field leads to the base.
Standard Routes
1) Ice flow
The route is as straight forward as it would look from the ground. After the approach there are a couple of low level ice pitches before the main flow. From the base of the ice two pitches will get you to the bulge, the steep section near the center of the route, then two more pitches to the top out on the fan. This is a winter route only. The route is mostly 60-70 degrees with a short section of 80 (estimate) Descent in via the escape gully (5)
2) Bachichike Left. 5.10 (estimate)
This route follows the rock just to the right of the ice flow. Start low on the route, if you walk gullies as high as possible you will miss a few good pitches down low. The number of pitches to this climb varies on when you decide to hop on, but once you are on the route there will be at least six good pitches. The hardest moves are right near the top and involve a wonderfully exposed little roof you have to hop over then move lightly on the face above. Lots of old bolts and pitons in this section.. The route is easy to follow due to the preponderance of old pitons and bolts.
This route follows the rock just to the right of the ice flow. Start low on the route, if you walk gullies as high as possible you will miss a few good pitches down low. The number of pitches to this climb varies on when you decide to hop on, but once you are on the route there will be at least six good pitches. The hardest moves are right near the top and involve a wonderfully exposed little roof you have to hop over then move lightly on the face above. Lots of old bolts and pitons in this section.. The route is easy to follow due to the preponderance of old pitons and bolts.
Descent in via the escape gully (5)
3) Bachichike center ?
I cannot say much about this route as I never climbed it, but a local climber said that he climbed it once, it was dirty and loose and he never went back. But if your up for an adventure, give it a try.
Descent in via the escape gully (5)
I cannot say much about this route as I never climbed it, but a local climber said that he climbed it once, it was dirty and loose and he never went back. But if your up for an adventure, give it a try.
Descent in via the escape gully (5)
4) Schwaba 5.8 - 5.10
This is the must do climb while you are in the area. It is the series of pillars on the right end of the wall that are stacked like cucumbers all the way to the top of the ridge. The reason that it a must is that the rock is so solid and the climbing so comfortable that you can look around and get an excellent sense of place, knowing that the mountains to your south rise higher and higher to the top of the world in the distant lands to the south.
To get to the first pitch it is necessary to scramble up steep but short rock section. The start is just to the right of a small rock pillar that has fallen in toward the cliff. Here is a small notch, climb up to that then follow the obvious route up the wall. On this route there are lots of ledges for comfortable belaying and the rock is solid for good placements. At times the route gets confusing and I probably have never climbed it the same twice, but the routes lead in the same direction, up the pillars.
The total number of pitches is about seven, each pillar has a distinct personality. Be ready for a few moments of run out on face, cracks, or corner climbing. There is a good spot to bail off the after pitch six, just below the final column with the long crack on the right corner. A double rope rappel and some scrambling will get you off the climb. I have put pitons there for the rappel, but chances are they are already taken.
The classic pitch and crux is the final column. If you have had enough or if it started to rain you can bail off right here. The variation I like to climb is the crack up the right corner. Down low there is a bit of loose rock, but good placements. The crux is the small roof near the top of the pitch. Save a big friend of two for here. After a short smooth section above the roof is a big jug of a hold that means safety. The other option is right up the face, the climbing is easier, but more difficult to protect. If you avoid the crack on the right the whole climb is about hard 5.8 or easy 5.9 climbing.
At the top of this column it is possible to rap off down one pitch and rappel a few times down to the scree, or continue on and up over loose rock then right down the escape gully.
5) Escape Gully – no rating
This is either the casual ascent up to the ridge or the descent from all of the climbs. While returning from a climb it is the first wide open rock field on your right. You need to be careful so as not to take a right to soon and end up in a steep gully that requires one rappel to get through. Just wait until it is a rock field that opens up and not a gully that narrows.
This is either the casual ascent up to the ridge or the descent from all of the climbs. While returning from a climb it is the first wide open rock field on your right. You need to be careful so as not to take a right to soon and end up in a steep gully that requires one rappel to get through. Just wait until it is a rock field that opens up and not a gully that narrows.
Peak Box
Box is an Ak-Sai classic in the winter months in part due to that it stares you in the face each and every morning when you wake up at the Ratsek cabin. This is a winter climb and one of the only good ice routes of a lower grade with a good walk off descent. It can be done in one long day from the Ratsek cabin and back that night.
From the cabin it is a short hike over to the base of the climb. At the beginning the ice is a gentle flow, there is a nice large rock which serves as a good first belay station. There are two possible routes, the obvious right and left forks. The left fork is shorter and not so steep. At the top of the route you walk over rocks to the base of the really large cornice. Move right around the cornice and head up left over the snowfield to the summit. Both routes are good consistent glacier ice of about 60-70 degrees.
The right fork is the preferred route as it is narrower and longer and provides an opportunity for a better challenge at the top. At the top of the main flow you can either bail left and scramble over to the cornice, or go straight up the thin ice that becomes mixed ice/rock near the summit. There is a lot of loose rock all over the top of this climb.
The descent goes over the summit down the other side to where the glacier flows above the cabin. The descent is a long gully of loose rocks that can quickly and easily be descended. At the glacier, cross and return via the main trail to the cabin.
The descent route is also used to climb the mountain. To climb this peak take the trail past the Ratsek to memorial rock and angle right as if going to south Korona. At the top of the glacier cross the glacier and take the obvious rock gully working your way up over the loose rock to the summit. This climb requires crampons and a rope for the glacier crossing and the final snow at the top of the mountain. It is not technical, but is underestimated by many who think it is an easy climb and have trouble on the glacier crossing or at the summit.
Peak Isiskatel
Peak Isiskatel (4400m) is a little spire with a tremendous view, located right by the Korona group. All 3 routes have a substantial bit of ice climbing, and the center north face route is pure ice.
The approach for all 3 standard routes is the same-from the Korona Hut. Most of the elevation (except the last 150-200 m) is gained by climbing up the Korona Glacier on easy, 35 degree snow, though crampons could be necessary depending on conditions. Climb along the left side, and cross the glacier at the elevation at the base of the peak.
The classic route ever since it was first climbed in 1982 (Rusian grade 2a) is to the saddle and up the east ridge. This first task is to cross the bergschrund, which can be gaping and very cold. Two ice axes might be needed.
Next, the ice is 50 degrees at first, then easing slightly to 40-45 degrees. Ice screws are necessary. The distance to the saddle is about 70 meters; there is a good rock halfway up to rest. After the saddle there is a bit of 45 degree ice, about 15 meters, then 2 fairly easy pitches of good stable snow with a bit of rock to the summit (4400m).
The old classic route (Russian 3b, first climbed in 1967) is significantly harder and a bit longer than the 2A route. It goes up the west ridge on 45 degree ice for one pitch to some rocks on the ridge. Depending on the season there might be firn snow on the ice. From here, it is a pitch of snow climbing, then 2 + pitches of rock to the west summit. The rock is solid and not dangerous, with many stable spots for belaying and many pitons available to clip into. At the west summit a short (30 m) traverse on a knife-edge saddle is
necessary to reach the main, east summit.
The third standard route, first climbed in 1988, is up the center north face. It is an ice climb at 45-55 degrees. The ice is generally good and hard, even in summer.
The standard descent route for all climbs on this peak is the 2A route. Downclimb to the ice, then descend by rappel. There should be rappel anchors at useful locations, but bringing some is safer.
Peak Free Korea
The wall of Free Korea (4740m) is the premier climbing wall of the region and has many routes put up on its kilometer long north face.
The classic two routes are the Barber route straight up the ice highway in the middle, or the Lowe route which angles right to left on the lower angle ice gully on the right.
The best season for these routes is late fall and into early March. It can be done year round but rock and ice fall become hazards in summer.
Barbar - Lowe routes
To get there take the trail from the Ratsek cabin to memorial rock, then angle right up the left side of the glacier. At the base of Peak Korona is a metal cabin in bad shape that can serve as a base. The wall is directly across the glacier. This glacier appears easy to cross, but has been the sight of tragedy of climbers that return from the climb unroped.
The Barber route is the ice highway that runs up the center of the wall. It was first climbed by Henry Barber in 1976. The route is 22 pitches on mostly 60-70 degree ice.
The Lowe route is the gully to the right of the Barber route that goes from right to left. This was also put up in 1976 by Jeff Lowe. The story has it that Henry first put up the route in front of an amazed gallery of Russian climbers, The next day Jeff was feeling left out so he left his mark on the wall as well. This route is about 800m and much less angled then the Barber route at 40-55 degrees.
Getting down both requires rappelling off the route, no other easy way off. You could go down the other side but it is a long walk off where you end back in the Alpine Camp at Ala Archa, this means taking all bivy gear with you.
Peak Korona
Peak Korona (4810m)is the shining crown of the region.
The north face provides a wall for the most extreme climbers to have their day while the south approach gives a straight forward ascent and many final towers to climb.
This peak is often used as a warm up climb before expeditions head out to other regions in Kyrgyzstan.
Routes from the south
The South face of Korona is a popular ascent, it requires glacier travel gear and a some rock and ice gear for the final tower. From the Ratsek cabin take the trail 100m to memorial rock then angle right and follow the trail up to the metal cabins.
From the cabin ascend up the broad snowfield staying to the left side. The easiest route to one of the towers is an ice gully easily visible as you approach.
A trip from Bishkek to the summit of Korona from the south and back would go something like this:
• Day one - Bishkek to the Ratsek cabin
• Day two - Ratsek to the metal hut.
• Day three - Ascent of Korona, back to Ratsek
• Day four - Back to Bishkek
From the Korona cabin at 3800m ("Hotel Korona" - the small hut atop Ak Sai glacier, not the real hotel in the Ala Archa Valley) ascend up the broad snowfield of the Korona Glacier staying to the left side. The glacier eventually steepens to about 35 or 40 degrees at the bergschrund; crampons are usually useful if not necessary. There is a permanant snow bridge across the bergshrund near the base of the first tower. After crossing this snowbridge, routes diverge depending on the tower you are climbing.
2nd tower
The easiest, most accessible and most popular tower is the second tower (Russian grade 2A). The straightforward approach goes up the ice (80 meters, 45 degrees) to the col between the small yellow geanderme and the second tower. Usually screws are needed but if the conditions are right, a firn snow will cover the ice giving good safe footing. From the col, a short (70m) rock climb on mildly technical rock (45-60 degrees) leads to the peak (4750 m). This tower can also be climbed by the south side; instead of straight up the ice, traverse right and up to the rock islands. Form here continue on the ice
to the col on the south side of the tower. A very short (20m) scramble up the ridge leads to the summit of the second tower. Here no rock protection is needed; just ice screws. The more difficult traverse on the ice is compensated by the ease of the rock on this route.
to the col on the south side of the tower. A very short (20m) scramble up the ridge leads to the summit of the second tower. Here no rock protection is needed; just ice screws. The more difficult traverse on the ice is compensated by the ease of the rock on this route.
The standard descent from the second tower is down the south side, a downclimb on rock and then ice.
1st tower
The first tower is harder (russian 3A) than the second, but is very popular as well as it has a few interesting technical parts. After the bergschrund, go to the left up the ice coliour (55-60 degrees, screws usually needed) to the col between the first tower and the sheer wall. Here the route continues left up a short (5m) bit of technical icy rock at about 85-90 degrees. The moves are rather difficult in the conditions; rock protection is needed especially as the route angles a bit right over the abyss on the back side of the col. After this bit, the route continues up the rock slab (easy, but unprotected) and up a short, 1-pitch scramble to the peak (4810m). Descent is by rappel down the same
route.
route.
A traverse between the first and second towers is possible by several routes- the most direct route contains several difficult rock moves and goes over the rock wall and geanderme to the col and continues up the second tower (Russian 3A).
Routes from the North
The North side of Korona is so extreme that it is not often climbed.
There are many good routes on obvious lines. There are also many good routes to the left and right of the main wall. The gully to the left of the summit, then a few pitches of easy (5.6) rock then a decent down the south side is a good climb. But for this you have to travel with sleeping bag and stove and spend the second night in the cabin on the south side.
The cabin at the base of the North wall is still in good shape and is a good place from which to base climbs.
Peak Tikitor
Peak Tikitor is a good one-day climb of medium difficulty.
This can be done from the Ratsek or from the metal hut below southern Korona.
There is a glacier to cross and a crevassed section on the climb so ropes and other technical equipment is necessary.
To get to there take the trail from the Ratsek to memorial rock then angle right and ascend to the left of the glacier on the trail. Cross the glacier when you are directly across from the summit and ascend up the gully going left to right (to the right of the peak in the above picture), then follow the snow ridge up to the summit. This climb has a couple of nasty crevasses so bringing a rope and glacier gear is a good idea.
You should be very aware of snow conditions on this route, the slope is such that the snow pack can be unstable after a storm.
It is also possible to climb the big snow/ice face far to the left of the peak, then go down the other side a bit and cut over to the summit. This is a long tiring and frustrating day, but has a bit of everything, ice, rock scrambling, swearing at taking the wrong gully and going back down and only eventually It is about as fun as it sounds. So either take the main route up to the summit and back, or do the ice face to the left as a separate climb to the ridge and descend on the route.
A Note On The Ratsek Cabin
The Ratsek is a cabin in the hearts of all who climb in this region. From here an army of young Soviet climbers were trained to be mountaineers. Countless nights have been spent contemplating climbs, recovering from climbs or just sitting looking at the stars above and the mountains around.
The cabin is located in Ala Archa National Park, near Bishkek, in a region called Ak Sai. From the base camps at the end of the road in the park it is about a 4-5 hour walk to the Ratsek. From the Ratsek are windows to trekking peaks, glaciers, one day climbs, or multi day walls. A piece of heaven for any trekker or mountaineer.
This is a story of one of many days I have spent at the Ratsek:
A stone hut used by climbers is in the near distance, in all directions are walls of rock and ice. To the left are the rock walls that were the next day's destination, to the right is Box, a sheet of ice 500 meters high. Straight ahead Peak Korona waits as a Mecca for future ambitions. Here, in this cabin, circled by the walls of Aksai, is the center of the universe. A place where for a moment all can be in control.
Well before sunrise we woke for the climb. The stone hut seemed to shake from the wind. "It’s pretty windy out there", I said to Joan from my sleeping bag, with obvious doubt. I tried to have my voice convey doubt without having to express doubt. "That’s good," she said as she rose from her sleeping bag. "The wind will blow the snow off the route." The sky was black, bright stars shining and only a small wash to the East where the sun would be. The creek had frozen overnight and we chopped through to get water for breakfast.
The approach to the cliff took two hours. We walked in silence, with each step the hills seemed higher, more important, more real. After a time she broke the silence: "I suppose I should tell you, a few weeks ago Mick, my boyfriend, died. We were on an expedition. I was standing next to him when he went out to check the snow. The snow broke free and he fell off the side of the mountain, his body was never found." Reminders of past falls, of stupid mistakes, instances when life could have been death knocked inside my head. I wasn't even sure, is there a period of mourning after the death of a climbing partner, or is it best to keep climbing right away? Had this question arisen in the city yesterday when we had met, I may have given it thought, but now I only thought about what lay ahead.
At the top of the scree we traversed along the base of the cliff to a small ledge where we gathered our gear. We had one small pack, a bottle of water, two candy bars and a small rack of slings, stoppers and friends. I took the first lead, and once my fingers went numb the climbing was fine, solid rock with good placements. I looked up at the cliff and out at toward sky. It rose straight, a pillar on the face, I arched back to see to whole route. Total length of the climb was about 450 meters, the weather was sunny, about 5c and very windy.
The first pitch forced out any jitters and reminded me that climbing is fun. Before I climb there is always a feeling a fear, sometimes justified, sometimes not. I had not climbed for months, but my fingers and forearms quickly returned to strength. We swapped leads, with Joan moving smoothly over the moves. The pitches went smoothly, we joked and seemed to only be only thinking about the climb and nothing else. I could see a happiness return to Joan that had not been there before. My turn to lead then hers, then mine again, this was a day of climbing removed from all else. When I stopped, jammed my hand in a crack and faced out for a look; I saw the Tien Shien mountains knowing that to the south for hundreds of miles are the greatest mountains on earth.
As we neared the top of the route the clouds moved in, all day they had been creeping up from the valley floor, the cabin had disappeared long ago. The clouds rose up to us, wet with moisture they clung to the rock. At the top of the pitch you could no longer see your belayer, the wind made talking impossible. The last pitch was the hardest, a long crack in a dihedral. The difficult section lasted for about 30 meters. The rock was wet and beads of water ran down my jacket. I asked Joan if she would do the lead even though it was my turn, I was tired and it seemed too much at the time, she had been climbing all summer. Joan tried, got up five meters to an old piton then backed down, no go. This is the moment of climbing that people always ask about, what if you can't go further? I always said you just try harder, so it was my go.
I moved past the bolt, using the good footholds for a layback and inched upward. There was a good rest stance so I stopped and put in my big piece of climbing gear, the number 4 Camalot. Past this point it was steeper and smoother. I continued up in the same layback, working upward. I went to switch my stance to get closer to the crack to put in gear, then wham, my right foot slid out and I was in the air. For a moment time was uncertain, a pause in life. It was a nice, easy fall, with a hard bounce on the rope, but I had lost ten meters of hard climbing. After I fell, Joan smiled, I shrugged, then I shook my hands loose and started again. This time instead of stopping to put in gear I moved past the same spot, keeping my body away from the crack.
Just above me was the huge hold on the left that was the end of the hard section. "Closer, try not to look, just move closer," passed through my mind. The last piece of protection was far below me. To fall now would be too much and too far. I didn't think I could climb this section one more time.
I looked up and it was there, only a reach away, but I still had to move my feet a little bit up. Each time I placed my foot it slid on the wet rock. I lunged for the hold the moment my foot slipped off, my left hand grabbing high, my wrist catching on the sharp edge of stone. For a moment it was all I had, a rock driving into my wrist with my feet firmly planted on air. I reached out with my other hand and grabbed for the hold, placed my feet back on the rock, and then moved on.
We returned to the Ratsek after dark, stumbling and happy. We toasted ourselves and our climb. Yuri was there and we spent the evening playing chess with the one small remaining candle. They had been worried about us, by the time we descended the rain had turned to snow and was slowing building on the ground. There is a good feeling in the Ratsek, especially after a climb, the stone walls offering protection and safety. Without the Ratsek this place would seem empty, like a home was needed.
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Life has changed in the Ratsek since the fall of communism. Alpinism in the former Soviet Union developed very differently than in the West. The government both supported and controlled all climbing. To be a mountaineer you were required to join a sports club and be part of a team. As a team you would be allowed to climb one peak, then advance to the next level. All climbing was controlled by Masters and Trainers. To be a Master you had to climb all the peaks on the "syllabus", then create a new route.
The Ratsek was used by climbers from all over the Soviet Union. They tell stories of hundreds of young climbers learning there, that not just anybody was allowed to go to the Ratsek, only teams with trainers. They are also always having competitions, as if they never just climb, but always a competition. For me this sounds like hell. I climb to get away, I choose my partners, I climb what I want when I want. In the Soviet system authority followed you up the peak. To the Soviets our system is crazy; how can you climb without a team, how do you learn without a trainer, why climb if you do not plan on competing?
Now the system has completely fallen apart. There are no more clubs, and no restrictions on who can climb. There is also no new equipment other than ice screws which are still everywhere. There are also very few climbers from other regions simply because it is too expensive to travel even within the former Soviet Union. The Ratsek is now very quiet, filled with ghosts of the past. The windows are gone, trash is everywhere. The Ratsek sits as if is waiting for new owners to return it to its glory. A metaphor for the entire Soviet Union.
Garth Willis
Kyrgyz
Mountain Info
